Sunday, October 6, 2013

Ah, Nicoletta

Michael White, aka Chef Bianco, is well known and well regarded in the New York City fine cuisine community. His restaurant, Marea, is regarded as one of the best seafood restaurants that we have in this city, which is saying a lot. He owns several other restaurants as well, Osteria Morini, Ai Fiori, and two newbies: Costata and the Butterfly. I've tried Marea for a special 29th birthday dinner, and have been to Osteria Morini a handful of times (hint: try the meatballs). However, my favorite Bianco restaurant is his pizzeria, Nicoletta.

But first let's back up and talk a little bit about Michael White's bio. He was born in Wisconsin, but his passion for food led him to study in Imola, Italy, a small town outside of Bologna. Chef Bianco lived and learned there for seven years, before returning to the states to swoop up stars from both the New York Times and the Michelin Guide, as well as a few James Beard awards.

So this New York by way of Chicago by way of Italy by way of Wisconsin saga has all somehow rolled together and given us Nicoletta. Michael White has said in interviews that he wanted to make a pizzeria inspired by his Beloit, Wisconsin hometown pizzeria called Domenico's. This pizza is more 'murican, less Italian. More strip mall, less SoHo boutique. More Pizza Hut, less Grimaldi's.

And yet this pizza is FABULOUS! The fine ingredients and topping combinations were clearly concepts of this accoladed chef. However, it is the crust that screams midwest. It is not the typical thin New York crust, but instead a bit more substantial. The pepperoni curls up beautifully, and the pizza is garnished with tangy sprinkles of parmesan. It must also be said that the side dishes and desserts are strong in their own right. Chef Bianco's famous meatballs with grandma's red sauce have come over from Osteria Morini, and while I'm not a dessert person, I was blown away by the creamy fior di latte gelato. We topped ours with blueberry limoncello and amaretti cookie crumbles, but you can get creative.

Crust Thickness: Average
Crust Softness: Firm
Crust Char: Tan
Crust Puffiness: Airy
Sauce: Smooth
Cheese: Grated, Superior
Pepperoni Crisp: Crispy and Curled
Style: Unique

**** - Pizza Perfection

What the Stars Mean:
Stars are awarded similarly to the New York Times restaurant reviews. 1 star is recommended, 2 stars is very good, 3 stars is excellent, and 4 stars is pizza perfection.





Music Nerd Alert: the post title is a reference to "Ah, Violetta" in the third act of Verdi's opera, La Traviata.

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